Invincible summer

and a recipe for a one-pot chicken dish that’s deeply satisfying

I’m more than a day late and a dollar short.

I don’t have much of an excuse, except to say that January felt like the longest month in human history—possibly stretching into an alternate timeline—and now February, the so-called "short" month, seems determined to follow suit.

The quiet weight of winter is slowly becoming my nemesis.

Sweater weather

There is something about deep winter that dulls the edges of things. The grey sky casts a pall as thick as molasses, sun barely breaking through. Not even February’s aptly named Snow Moon could pierce the thick veil of clouds last week.

In this midwinter spell, everything seems somehow remote, out of reach—including, these days, words.

Yet there are my creature comforts. Thick and soft cozy sweaters. Blanket over my knees, kitty on top, naps for both of us. The patience and fortitude to tackle a really good long read. An all-day teapot, water barely simmering on the back of the stove to keep the leaves swimming.

The skeins of friendship, weaving over geography and time zones. A four-hour phone call, Sunday morning coffee klatsches, text messages that uplift, console, are laugh out loud funny.

These simple pleasures are my glimmers of joy in sweater weather season.

Invincible summer

“In the depth of winter, I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer.”

— Albert Camus, French philosopher, author, journalist and political activist

It has been steadily snowing for two days now. The drifts are nearly two feet high on our pocket terraces, furniture and garden pots and plants snugly covered for the season morphing into shapeless ghostly forms of white and ice and deep cold.

It is then that I have to dig deep and find the internal rays of sunshine that make everything better. Being kind. Letting someone ahead of me in the grocery store when they have two items to my twenty. Generously tipping the service workers who make my day easier. Finding warmth not in the world outside, but in the small, deliberate choices that bring light to others.

Because even in the coldest moments, when the world is muffled in snow and the days stretch long and gray, that invincible summer remains. It glows quietly within my heart, waiting to be kindled by a simple act, a gentle word, a reminder that warmth is something we create—even in the deepest winter.

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Poulet sauté aux olives vertes

(Chicken sauté with green olives)

Parisian Home Cooking, Michael Roberts

makes 2-3 servings

On days like this, when the wind howls against the windows and the world outside is hushed under a thick blanket of snow, there is nothing more comforting than a warm, aromatic dish that fills the kitchen with rich, savoury scents. This one pot chicken dish is exactly that kind of meal—simple, deeply flavourful, and satisfying.

Braised in a fragrant broth of vermouth, shallots, and olives, the chicken becomes tender and infused with brightness, a perfect contrast to the stark winter scene beyond the glass. Serve it with a crisp radicchio salad to add a refreshing, slightly bitter counterpoint to the dish’s richness. A one-pan dinner made for snow day.

Headnote

• While Picholine olives are the traditional choice for a French braise, the pits may be off putting. If you use pitted olives, try to find those that still have a sharp briny note as a contrast to the rich sauce.

• Unlike chicken breasts, chicken thighs and drumsticks become more tender the longer they cook. That’s because dark meat contains a high amount of connective tissue. As it cooks, that tissue gradually breaks down into gelatin, keeping the meat juicy and tender. The more time it has to break down, the more succulent the meat becomes. So go ahead and cook it longer than the usual recommended internal temperature of 175°F (79°C).

Ingredients

3 to 3 ½ pounds bone-in, skin on chicken thighs

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 shallots, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)

1-2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ cup dry vermouth or fruity dry white wine

½ cup low-sodium chicken broth

½ cup small green olives, such as Picholines (see Headnote)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Rinse the chicken, pat dry, and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet, ideally cast iron, over high heat. Add the chicken, without crowding the pan—cook in batches if necessary—turn down the heat and brown on both sides, about 7 minutes or longer per side. Remove the chicken pieces and set aside. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat.

2. Add the shallots and garlic to the pan and cook, stirring, to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken thighs back to the pan, skin side up, sprinkle with the thyme, and add the vermouth, broth, and olives.

3. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat so that the chicken is merrily simmering, and cook until chicken is cooked through and has an internal temperature of at least 185°F (85°C) or even as high as 190–195°F (90.5°C) (see Headnote). Remove the chicken from the skillet and keep warm while you finish the dish.

4. Raise the heat and continue cooking the liquid until it has reduced by about half. Add any collected chicken juices, then whisk in the butter. Arrange the chicken on a serving platter, pour over the sauce, and serve.