Decoding olive oil

and a recipe for salmoriglio that lets olive oil shine

In the Mediterranean, olive oil isn’t just a pantry staple—it’s a cultural cornerstone.

Last week, I wrote about the lure and lore of olive oil, an ingredient that I can scarcely imagine living without. This week I promised to get a bit less esoteric and roll up my sleeves to share what you should know—and some of the things you should cook—with this liquid (greeny) gold.

What’s in a name?

When it comes to olive oil, quite a bit, as it turns out.

The olive oil world of labels, grades, and uses can feel overwhelming. Extra-virgin? Virgin? Light?

Let’s start with the not so obvious. What exactly makes an olive oil "extra-virgin"? According to the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), it must meet four strict criteria:

1. Mechanical Extraction: No chemical processes—just pure, natural methods.

2. Low Acidity: The oil must have less than 1% free fatty acids.

3. Cold-Pressed: Extracted without heat, preserving flavor and nutrients.

4. Perfect Taste: Trained tasters ensure there are no defects.

This level of scrutiny ensures extra-virgin olive oil delivers on taste, quality, and authenticity. It must also display fruity notes without any sensory defects.

Understanding other grades

• Virgin Olive Oil: Like extra-virgin but with a slightly higher acidity (up to 2%).

• Pure Olive Oil: A blend of virgin and refined oils, with acidity under 1.5%. Less flavorful and commonly used for cooking.

• “Light” Olive Oil: Don’t let the label fool you: "light" olive oil isn’t lower in calories. It’s simply lighter in colour and flavor. Marketed as a low-fat alternative, it contains the same 125 calories per tablespoon as any other olive oil.

A word on taste

To truly appreciate olive oil, learn its characteristics. Like wine, olive oil has district flavour profiles, with each specific olive and terroir leaving its mark. Great oils often have fruity, almond, or apple notes, with a balance of sweetness or pepperiness. Watch out for flaws like bitterness, metallic tones, or mustiness, which can ruin the experience. Professional tastings rely on a sensory vocabulary to assess these traits, ensuring extra-virgin oils meet exacting standards.

Here are some examples of dishes that pair beautifully with specific olive oil styles:

• Bold, peppery Tuscan olive oil: Perfect for drizzling over a hearty ribollita soup, finishing a grilled Florentine steak, or adding depth to roasted root vegetables.

• Full-bodied Greek olive oil: Ideal for tossing with roasted eggplant and zucchini, blending into a creamy tzatziki sauce, or dressing a warm farro and feta salad.

• Light, fruity Ligurian or Provençal olive oil: Excellent for brushing onto focaccia before baking, drizzling over a delicate fish crudo, or blending into a citrusy vinaigrette for mixed greens.

• Robust Spanish olive oil: Use it to finish a smoky gazpacho, drizzle over roasted potatoes with paprika, or pair with Manchego cheese and crusty bread for a simple tapa.

• Late-harvest sweet olive oil: A wonderful addition to desserts like olive oil cake, drizzled over vanilla gelato with sea salt, or used in a citrus and olive oil tart.

Experimenting with these pairings can unlock new dimensions of flavour and showcase the versatility of a great olive oil.

Yet taste is always personal. Stock a variety of olive oils—bold, fruity, late-harvest—for different uses, from frying to drizzling. Experiment with how their distinct aromas and flavours transform your dishes, and discover the endless ways a good oil can elevate your cooking.

Cooking with olive oil: from baking to frying

What about frying versus baking? Olive oil isn’t just for salad dressing—it’s a healthier alternative to butter in baking. Swapping butter for olive oil reduces saturated fats, lightens textures, and adds a subtle richness. Use this quick guide to substitute olive oil in recipes:

• 1 teaspoon butter = ¾ teaspoon olive oil

• 1 cup butter = ¾ cup olive oil

Try it in brownies, citrus cakes, or even quick breads—you might never look back.

And if you think olive oil isn’t for frying, think again. While extra-virgin isn’t ideal due to its low smoke point, virgin or pure olive oil shines in high-heat applications. These oils retain stability at high temperatures while sealing in moisture and enhancing the dish’s flavor.

Here are four pro tips for frying with olive oil:

1. Keep oil depth at 2½ inches and heat slowly to 350–365°F.

2. Avoid overcrowding your fryer to maintain a consistent temperature.

3. Drain fried foods on racks (not paper towels) to preserve crispness.

4. Strain and store used oil carefully—olive oil can be reused up to 10 times

The caveat of course, is that good olive oil is expensive. You can do as the Italians do and use a good quality sunflower oil for deep frying, and reserve olive oil for where flavour really matters (and even then choose a pure olive oil).

A final drizzle

From its impeccable versatility to its heart-healthy benefits, olive oil earns its place as a kitchen essential. Whether you’re baking a citrus loaf, frying delicate zucchini blossoms, or simply finishing a dish with a splash of extra-virgin, remember: quality matters. Choose wisely, and let this liquid gold transform your cooking.

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Salsa salmoriglio (oil, lemon and herb sauce)

makes about ½ cup

In Sicily, salmoriglio is a common sight on the table, always ready to drizzle over vegetables, grilled fish, or meat. There are countless ways to make it—some include sun-dried tomatoes, others add lemon zest with the juice, or experiment with various herbs. For a twist, you could swap the oregano for marjoram. Marjoram is a favorite herb in Sicily, part of the oregano family but with a milder, slightly more bitter taste. I’ve used half oregano and half marjoram here.

4 ounces olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

¾ cups flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon dried oregano or marjoram

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice and 2 teaspoons of warm water. Gradually whisk in the parsley, garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper until thickened slightly.