Changing our holiday traditions

and a recipe for a delicious alternative to roast turkey on your holiday table

I often proudly declare that I like change.

I’m flexible, I say. Adaptable. Open to new ideas and ways of doing things. And then I catch myself rearranging the books on the coffee table, reloading the dishwasher, reorganizing the pantry. A little bit of out of place can drive me crazy.

It’s a wonder we managed to do a Holiday Open House for 24 years running without someone getting hurt. An event weeks in the planning, with 60+ guests, all the food homemade (and for many years, the invitations), during the lead up I became part drill sergeant, part circus clown, doing endless circles on a unicycle. Yet somehow it always came together, in very large part because my partner in crime and cooking mate, Richard, always managed to stay calm and centred.

Thus it was that the second Sunday in December became an enshrined tradition, not just with us, but with our dear guests, many who declared that our gathering was truly the kickoff to the holiday season.

“To change one’s life: Start immediately. Do it flamboyantly."

—William James, American philosopher and psychologist

But this year was going to be decidedly different.

The first Open House since the start of Covid. The first not in our cherished home of 26 years. Gone was the comforting expanse of our old basement, with its ample refrigerator and freezer, a silent witness to many festive preparations. Now, we faced the intimacy of smaller spaces and hard decisions.

The shift wasn't just physical—it compelled us to reimagine this beloved tradition in new ways. Embracing the spirit of reinvention, we decided to have the event catered, allowing us the luxury to truly relax and engage in meaningful conversations with our guests.

As I moved through the room, greeting old friends—some whom we hadn’t seen for years, I couldn't help but feel a twinge of longing for the chaotic charm of our previous open houses.

Yet, amidst this reflection, I realized there was so much to be grateful for. The faces of dear friends, some who have been with us through thick and thin, radiated warmth and joy. We were surrounded by an abundance of everything we needed – good food, great company, and the luxury of time and space to be fully present in the moment.

“There are far better things ahead than any we leave behind.”

—C.S Lewis

In these moments, I was reminded of the power of traditions. They anchor us, yet they also evolve. This year, our holiday open house was different, but it was still a celebration of togetherness, gratitude, friendship, and the joy of the season. As we look forward to the future, I’m welcoming the opportunity to both hold onto cherished traditions and explore new ways to celebrate. Whether they morph into something new or stay rooted in the past, these traditions continue to shape our joy and connect us to the memories that make us.

This year's Open House taught me that change, though often daunting, brings its own unique gifts. It reminded me that the heart of our gatherings isn't in the location or the food, but in the connections we forge and cherish. And perhaps, there's something to be said for shaking things up, for stepping out of my comfort zone to discover new ways to celebrate and connect.

As I look forward to next year, I’ll carry with me the lessons of this year’s gathering—the joy of simplicity, the value of presence, and the endless possibilities that come with embracing change.

Beef tenderloin with roasted shallots, bacon and Port

Bon Appetit magazine

serves 12 (can easily be halved)

If you’re thinking about making a change to your holiday dinner this year, and ditching the turkey, you’d do well to try this superb recipe and start a new tradition.

The first time we hosted Christmas dinner in our house many years ago, I wanted to do something different, not the usual holiday bird. But the truth was, big roasts of any kind were not my purview. With a cranky old electric range and a kitchen the size of a postage stamp, any kind of big meat, let alone the requisite sides, felt like a mammoth undertaking.

This recipe, first featured in Bon Appetit magazine way back in 1997, seemed simple enough for me to tackle, even with my limited resources. When the butcher weighed my roast beef tenderloin—enough to serve 12—I nearly fainted at the price and nearly had second thoughts. How could something as simple as searing and roasting result in anything approaching spectacular?

But spectacular it was, with everyone clamouring for seconds and barely enough left over for a coveted roast beef sandwich the next day. This recipe has become a staple, special enough for a celebratory feast and quite wonderful for a gathering of friends.

The recipe is enough to serve a crowd; it can be easily halved, and leftover slices of tender beef in the sumptuous sauce freeze beautifully (and the sauce freezes on its own too).

Ingredients

1½ pounds large shallots (about 24), halved lengthwise, peeled

3 tablespoons olive oil

6 cups canned beef broth

1½ cups tawny Port

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 3- to 3¼-pound beef tenderloins (large ends), trimmed

2 teaspoons dried thyme

7 bacon slices, chopped

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter

1½ tablespoons all purpose flour

1. Position rack in centre of oven and heat to 375°F.

2. In 9-inch-diameter pie pan, toss shallots with oil to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Roast until the shallots are deep brown and very tender, stirring occasionally, about 30-40 minutes.

3. Boil broth and Port in large saucepan until reduced to 3 3/4 cups, about 30 minutes. Whisk in tomato paste. (Shallots and broth mixture can be made 1 day ahead. Cover separately; chill.)

4. Pat the beef tenderloin dry; sprinkle with thyme, salt and pepper. In a large roasting pan set over medium heat, sauté bacon until golden and slightly crisped around the edges, about 8-10 minutes. Keep a close eye as you don’t want the bacon to be too crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels. Add beef to pan; brown on all sides over medium-high heat, about 7 minutes total.

5. Transfer the pan to oven; roast beef until meat thermometer inserted into center registers 125°F for medium-rare, about 45 minutes. Transfer the beef to platter and tent loosely with foil.

6. Spoon fat off top of pan drippings in roasting pan. Place the roasting pan over high heat, add the broth mixture and bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits. Transfer the broth to a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Mix 3 tablespoons butter and 1 1/2 tablespoons flour in a small bowl to form smooth paste; whisk it into broth mixture and simmer until sauce thickens, about 3-5 minutes. Whisk in an additional 3 tablespoons butter. Stir in the reserved roasted shallots and bacon. Season sauce with salt and pepper.

7. Cut beef into 1/2-inch-thick slices and place on a serving platter. Spoon sauce on top and serve the rest on the side.