An Italian flight of fancy

and a recipe for zucchini pasta inspired by la bella Italia

There’s a moment in the deep dog days of summer when time seems to stand still.

Maybe it’s because the air is thick with heat, making the clock tick with molasses hands. It could be the sudden torrential rain that sweeps in with a dark scowl, feeling like it will go on forever. It’s the longer days, the lighter traffic, fewer people at the office as they escape to the cottage, the beach, or further afield.

It all makes me want to escape too.

And of all the places near and far that I long to return to, Italy’s beguiling siren song rings most insistently in my ear.

If I could pinpoint one thing that I love about Italy – one word that sums up the feeling I have there – it’s leisurely. Nothing exemplifies this more than the time spent at table.

Lunch is a two hour affair. One lingers over a coffee as long as a three course meal. Things move simultaneously fast and in slow motion. A waiter rushing past to make sure the plates get to the table pronto. That exquisite first slither of pasta. You are surrounded by an energy that centres on the plate. And because so much time is taken up in eating – eating deliberately and joyfully – there must be real satisfaction in it.

Penne al sugo alla toscana at Trattoria 4 Leoni from a long ago lunch

This is not the time, or the summer, for Italy. There are deadly heat waves to worry about, dysfunctional airports to battle through, places closer to home to explore. Still, I can bring Italy to the table any time. As the cicadas trill and sing their own siren song, I’ll linger over a plate of pasta with zucchini and dream of that leisurely lunch. Italy will always be there and I can’t wait to get back.

Pasta with Zucchini
serves four as an appetizer portion

The secret to Italian cuisine is to cook with the freshest ingredients available and keep it simple. Not for a pasta dish a list of complicated steps and procedures.

With zucchini in season, now is the time to take advantage of every part of this summer delicacy. Zucchini flowers are becoming easier to find, and are well worth seeking out for their lovely flavour and the sunny colour they add to any dish. They can be added to this one too. If adding zucchini flowers, remove the pistils and stems, and sauté they very quickly after frying the zucchini.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus ¼ cup
Flour for dredging, about ½ cup
6 small zucchini
½ cup fresh peas or edamame beans
6-8 large basil leaves, plus extra for garnish
¼ cup chopped Italian parsley
250 gr good quality dried pasta
Grated zest of one lemon
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
Salt and pepper to taste
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano to serve

1. Prepare the zucchini flowers. Open the flowers gently and remove the pistils. Set aside.

2. Trim and slice the zucchini lengthwise into thin slices. Dredge very lightly in the flour, shaking to remove excess flour. Set aside on a clean plate.

3. In a medium skillet, heat two tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Gently fry the zucchini until golden, turning to fry both sides. Be careful not the zucchini brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, place in a bowl and set aside.

4. Steam or blanch the peas or edamame for a few minutes until they are tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and add to the bowl with the zucchini.

5. Combine the basil, parsley and ¼ cup olive oil in a small food processor and blend to form a thick paste. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. Cook the pasta according to directions in salted boiling water. When the pasta is al dente, drain, reserving ½ cup of the pasta cooking water. Return the pasta to the pot, add the basil-parsley sauce and stir to combine, and then add the zucchini, edamame, lemon zest and capers. Heat over medium heat for one to two minutes, stirring to combine all ingredients, and adding some reserved pasta water if the sauce seems thin. Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano Reggiano on the side.