Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder

and the best savoury and sweet bar snacks to make right now

In these contrarian times, willfully giving up something that brings us enjoyment may not seem like the best of strategies.

Indulging in our favourite things

In fact, there’s no shortage of ideas for surrounding ourselves with simple pleasures. Instagram is full of comfort food dishes, as is the Cooking section of the New York Times. Mac and cheese, stews, soups conspire to sustain us. Eating dessert first might be an even better idea. An extra glass of wine, or breaking open a special bottle, doesn’t need an occasion other than it’s Thursday night. Skipping a walk or a serious read to continue binging on Lupin or Bridgerton seems eminently sensible and appropriate, as is staying in our pajamas all day.

…and giving them up too

In the midst of all this, in both the shortest month of the year and the one that can seem like the longest, comes Lent. Growing up in a Catholic household, this tradition was one we observed and giving up something for Lent was expected, for both us kids and the adults. It meant abstaining from that we enjoyed – it could be a food, such as sweets, chocolate, or maybe coffee for our parents, or a habit, like watching TV.

While many of the religious rites and traditions that I grew up with have fallen by the wayside, observing Lent is one that I look forward to every year. For 40 days, the Lenten season is meant to be a time of self-examination and reflection, and it’s heightened by a conscious decision to refrain from something. I’ve done it all – given up cheese; bread; sugar; even swearing (a practically impossible feat).

Falling in love with our favourite things again

There’s another consequence of giving up on a habit or indulgence and that’s the newfound appreciation that you gain when that self-imposed restriction is lifted. Chocolate tastes better; cheese is richer and more flavourful; and you’re more loathe to go back to old habits - especially bad ones. If absence makes the heart grow fonder, then abstinence certainly calls into high relief our enjoyment for our favourite things.

This year I’ve decided to give up alcohol. Instead of a gin and tonic on Saturday nights to go along with our usual aperitivo dinner, I’m enjoying a Seedlip and tonic, or sipping sparkling La Croix instead of wine. It’s not that I’m currently drinking daily, although some weeks that seems like a good idea, especially lately. The point of Lent is a sacrifice of sorts. Plus, I have new intel on Lent that is going to make the next 40 days of abstinence much more tolerable.

Sunday vibes

Even though I have been observing Lent for years, I discovered last week that my parents were holding out on me. While the season of Lent runs from Ash Wednesday through to Easter, Sundays don’t count (read why here). Meant to be the “little Easters” leading up to the main event, it turns out Sundays are a break from abstinence. Hallelujah!

So I think I’ll make some of my easiest and most delicious bar snacks to enjoy with my glass of wine tonight. Just one glass, savoured slowly (well, perhaps two), will be that much more enjoyed, knowing that I’ll be waiting a few days for another.

The Best Bar Snacks, Ready in Minutes

I love bar snacks. It’s the measure of a really great bar when the snacks are top drawer and creative to boot. Sure, popcorn and potato chips are easy and addictive - not to mention salty so that you order that next round - but if I’m at a fabulous bar, I want an elevated nibble.

Why wait until we can be in a bar again to make delicious bar snacks? If there is a trifecta of perfect snacks, these may be it. With both a bit of sweet and a lot of savoury, these can all be made in less than an hour. Whether you enjoy them with a glass of wine, a smart cocktail or a non alcoholic sip, you’ll put these in rotation, guaranteed.

Make these snacks in the following order, and everything will be ready to nibble at more or less the same time. If you make all three:

• Preheat the oven to 400F

• Make the mustard batons and bake them

• While the bâtons are baking, make the Parmesan crisps

• While the Parmesan crackers are baking, prep the dates

• While the crackers are cooling, heat up the dates

• Make a very dry martini, pour a crisp glass of white wine or pop open the Champagne and enjoy!

Mustard Batons

Makes about 40 bâtons

excerpted from Around My French Table, Dorie Greenspan

All-purpose flour, for rolling

• 2 sheets frozen puff pastry (each about 8½ ounces), thawed

• ½ cup Dijon mustard (the stronger, the better!)

• 1 large egg

• Poppy seeds, for topping (optional)

1. Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.

2. Working with 1 sheet of pastry at a time, roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface until you have a rectangle that’s about 12 x 16 inches, with the short side of the rectangle closest to you.

3. Starting from the middle, spread ¼ cup of the mustard over the lower half of the dough, stopping about 1/8 inch from all edges. Fold the top portion of the dough over the bottom and, using a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut the pastry from top to bottom into strips about 1 inch wide, then either cut the strips crosswise in half, or if you prefer, leave them long. (I like shorter strips)

4. Transfer the bâtons to one of the baking sheets and chill them while you work on the second batch.

5. Once both trays are done, lightly beat the egg with a splash of cold water and brush just the tops of the strips with this glaze. If you’d like, sprinkle with poppy seeds.

6. Bake the bâtons for 8 minutes. Rotate the sheets from front to back and top to bottom and bake for another 7 or 8 minutes, or until the strips are puffed and golden brown. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and let the bâtons rest for a couple of minutes before serving.

Make ahead: You can make all the strips and freeze them on the baking sheets, then pack them airtight and keep them frozen for up to 2 months.

Crisp Parmesan Crackers

Makes about 15-20 crackers

excerpted from Roast Chicken and Other Stories, Simon Hopkinson

6 tbsp all purpose flour

3 oz slivered almonds

3 oz freshly grated Parmesan cheese

3 tbsp butter, melted

1 egg white, beaten with a pinch of salt

extra Parmesan and cayenne, for dusting

1. Preheat oven to 400F.

2. Sift flour into a large bowl and stir in Parmesan, almonds and melted butter. Stir thoroughly until combined.

3. Fold in egg white and form into a dough. Use your hands!

4. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough as thinly as possible. With a 3-inch pastry cutter, cut the pastry into circles and place on a well greased baking sheet.

5. Bake for 7 minutes or until pale golden. Remove immediately and place on a wire rack. Sprinkle with extra Parmesan and cayenne while still warm.

Sautéed Dates with Fennel and Walnuts

Makes 24

excerpted from The French Kitchen Cookbook, Patricia Wells

24 Medjool dates

1-2 tsp fennel seeds

24 walnut halves

2 tsp olive oil

Coarse freshly ground black pepper and sea salt

1. Pit the dates but do not cut all the way through. Sprinkle the inside of each date with a few fennel seeds, and stuff it with a walnut. Press the date closed, and repeat for all dates.

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over moderate heat. Add the dates and brown them very lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve warm.